That Time I Ate My Weight In Street Food: Penang, Malaysia


Penang, Malaysia was a big surprise for me, as it’s so incredibly different than all the other spots in Malaysia I experienced.

Georgetown is quaint and quirky: my kinda spot!

Georgetown is quaint and quirky: my kinda spot!

We spent a few days in the capital, Georgetown, which as you might be able to concur by the name was colonized by the British.

Georgetown is well, adorable.

Georgetown is well, adorable.

The town is full of two-story British colonial style shopfronts and homes, which, if you’re imagining this in your head, might seem pretty regular, except now add in the fact that they are covered with Chinese or Indian writing.

Exploring.

Exploring.

This is where things get interesting. As the rest of Malaysia has a very high Islamic population, Penang does not, because the majority of Penang’s population is actually Chinese, followed by Malay, followed by Indian.

British with a serious Asian vibe.

British with a serious Asian vibe.

They all peacefully coexist, and all while inhabiting these traditional British colonial structures in the intense heat and humidity.

Our hotel. Not the best pic, but a very special space.

Our hotel. Not the best pic, but a very special space.

So the scene has been set. We arrived at our hotel, the charming Nam Keng, on a peaceful street in Georgetown late at night. The hotel was once an old British mansion, now decorated with rich wood and Chinese characters, with a beautiful courtyard in the middle, shutters thrown open to let the Malay sun shine in. Or in our case, the night moon. The hotel was perfect. Jorge always makes fun of me and how much time I spend researching the perfect hotels for us but when you are on the road for six weeks, it’s amazing to come to a hotel and feel like you’ve arrived home. We immediately headed to Lebuh Chulia, which is the “backpacker” street. This to me translates to me as “incredibly cheap street food for broke travelers.” And cheap it was. I got some kind of noodle dish with pork for 3 riggit (about 50 cents) and on the pricier side at 5 riggits, Jorge got the famous Char Kway Teow….. which is a famous Chinese Malay dish of rice noodles, complete with juicy pork, peanuts and shrimp. We also got fresh juices which came in a trusty bag, I got mango and Jorge orange and carrot. These cost about 50 cents each. Having stuffed our bellies for a combined total of approximately two euros, we headed back the hotel to crash after a long day of traveling.

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We awoke the next morning and I was ready to explore the street art scene. Penang is famous for its art, and we were lucky enough to be in the city during the Georgetown Arts Festival.

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The festival is one month long and offers several temporary art and photography exhibits as well as some dance and music shows. But first, we wanted to start with that permanent street art that Georgetown is known for.

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So we braved the 100 degree plus heat and started off. The street art did not disappoint! I loved the way the artists incorporated 3D items into the art, like a real bicycle and then children painted on the walls.

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It was so much fun to take cheesy photos with the street art and just seeing all the people enjoying it.

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Street art is so cool because it doesn’t discriminate: it’s for everyone! Locals and tourists alike can enjoy the art, free of charge, anytime.

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This art really gives Georgetown its own quirky character.

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We also braved the heat to enjoy two temporary art exhibitions in town for the festival, one from French sculpture artist and another by a Malay photographer called Panic, who edits his photos to create distortion and disarray.

The jetty's didn't impress me much.

The jetty’s didn’t impress me much.

We also headed down to the Clan Jettys, which are houses on stilts where Chinese people live over the water. I was previously excited to see these, but I unfortunately wasn’t that impressed in person, as I found them super touristy and just kind of smelly and gross. Oh well. It was still a neat experience to see them.

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We were starving and considering we’d probably sweat out half our body weight in the heat, it was time for lunch. We decided to try the most famous Indian restaurant in town (I used the word restaurant lightly—it was more like street food with a roof on top), Kapitan. As I previously mentioned, Penang has a huge Indian population and Little India is a great place to chow down. Kapitan is famous for its chicken tandoori. We ordered two sets: one with clay pot biryiani rice and other with butter garlic naan.

The best meal I've ever eaten.

The best meal I’ve ever eaten.

This was the best chicken tandoori I’ve ever tasted. And I’ve been to India. The flavors were unreal: the chicken expertly crisped, the tandoori sauce spiced to perfection, the naan buttery and soft…I was in heaven! I almost hugged our server I was so happy…I feel like at least 1/3 of my life in Madrid is spent trying to find delicious Indian and ethnic food…one can only eat so many croquetas you know? Oh, if only I could have this amount of SPICE in my life on a daily basis! It was so amazing that we’d end up back there AGAIN the next day, I just couldn’t get enough. In fact, it’s only been a few days and I’m already dreaming of those flavors. Better get that out of my head, because I’m a girl who’s been ruined: I know I’ll never find Tandoori like that again, at least not in Spain! After this I decided I needed a back massage, which I quickly found and was amazing. I figured I need to start preparing to get my daily massages in Thailand.

Our spa.

Our spa.

Although this one was rather pricey: about 8 euros for 30 minutes, it was amazing and well needed after many days of planes, trains and automobiles, not to mention tons of walking around. That night, Jorge and I decided that we needed more Indian food and headed once again in the direction of Little India. We tried to get samosas but they’d run out for the day, so instead we got Roti Jala, which is a type of soft bread with a curry dipping sauce. As if I hadn’t had enough bread and spicy sauce already that day! It was insanely amazing and just 3 Riggit. This plus a couple of fresh juices and we were full. We decided that we wanted to splurge and head up to a fancy rooftop bar to get an overpriced beer and views of the city.

The view from the rooftop bar.

The view from the rooftop bar. A bit blurry, but you get the idea.

So we found one called Three Sixty, which is on the top of a hotel. It has a revolving restaurant and an outdoor Sky Bar for drinks. We ordered two beers for a total of 40 riggits (8 euros or so) which actually cost more than the total of our dinner three nights in a row! But it was fun to see views of the city at night, so it was worth it. We try to walk that fine line between splurge and save during our trips, so this was definitely a fun splurge. However, since Malaysia is Islamic, they don’t brew their own beer, which was disappointing. Instead, the offerings were mainly European, which is why I found myself drinking a Carlsberg (ew).

Unfortunately, a bit hazy at the top of Penang Hill.

Unfortunately, a bit hazy at the top of Penang Hill.

The next day, we took the local bus (an experience in itself) about an hour to the base of Penang Hill, and then prepared to take the funicular up. After waiting in line with a lot of annoying tourists, we headed up.

A lookout point on the hill.

A lookout point on the hill.

The views from the top of the hill were massive, since it was hazy, it wasn’t the best day to see for miles. It was still neat to be so high up though. I will say the hill is very much geared towards families, with tons of things for kids to do (extra $$$ of course) but we stopped into the mosque and the Hindu temple at the top and then ordered some chick pea masala for a $1 that was delicious.

My favorite part of the excursion, the street food.

My favorite part of the excursion, the street food.

We headed back down to then head to the Kok Lo Si Temple, the largest Buddhist temple in Malaysia, perched at the base of the hill and quite possibly one of the most spectacular temples I’ve seen.

The temple.

The temple.

However, it was unbelievably hot out, so this temple excursion was definitely a sweaty one. We grabbed the local bus and then of course, got off at the wrong stop, but it was fine as we wandered through a more authentic area of Penang, where locals went about their business, shopping, working, cooking up a storm of street food. We finally discovered the entrance to the temple, which sits at the base of the hill. Covered with market stalls on each site, locals try to hawk you souvenirs too you as you make the climb up uneven, dark stone stairs. Once near the top, there is a creepy pond filled to the brim of turtles that looks rather like a construction zone, and then the temple fun starts.

The famous pagoda, with its three design styles.

The famous pagoda, with its three design styles.

The structure itself is enormous, with several pagodas and twists and turns. Of course, too many Buddhas to count. As the temple is perched up high, there are so many spots that make awesome panoramic viewpoints. The first section of the temple visit is free, but if you want to climb the famous Pagoda of “Ban Po Thar” or Pagoda of the Ten Thousand Buddhas, you have to pay 2 Riggit per person, about 40 cents or so. The structure is extremely interesting because it combines three main architectural styles: Burmese, Thai and Chinese. Having visited many temples in Myanmar, the first thing I noticed was the top of the pagoda, which is gold and tapered in the typical Myanmar style. Whereas I am sure there are more accurate architectural terms to describe the differences in the three styles, I did notice the typical Thai minaret peaks in the middle section and then the base of the structure is Chinese.

Views from the pagoda.

Views from the pagoda.

The view from the pagoda was amazing and each level provided a difference angle of the city, perfect for taking an excessive number of photos, which of course, we did. It’s worth noting that during the Chinese New Year, you can finish the temple at night, when it’s lit up with Chinese lanterns. It must really be a sight to see!

After the temple, we headed back down to the city center. After exploring some street food in Chinatown, we decided all we wanted was more Indian food in Little India, so that’s exactly what we did. Two tandoori chickens, two carrot and orange smoothies and two foot massages later, we ended up back at the hotel. The next day we were finally heading to the beach, but not before exploring the morning market. Many markets in Asia are in the evening to beat the heat, so I was surprised to hear their market was open all day.

The chaos of the market.

The chaos of the market.

Of course, we headed there on the early side and the market was filled with locals, both selling and buying food, like noodles and curries for breakfast and also things like raw fish and meat for the week, fruit etc. The market also sold housewares, clothing, even lingerie!

A guy selling fish and other unidentifiable items at the market. I find it interesting,, so many locals sit like this all day long. I've been taking yoga for 20 years to be able to hold this posture for like, 11 seconds.

A guy selling fish and other unidentifiable items at the market. I find it interesting that so many locals in Southeast Asia sit like this all day long. I’ve been taking yoga for 20 years to be able to hold this posture for like, 11 seconds.

Jorge and I picked up a few things and then it was time to head to Thailand. As I plan to spend the next two weeks doing pretty much nothing besides lying on the beach, doing yoga and eating Penang curry, there won’t be much more happening on LSM until my next trip (don’t worry, got a lot of plans coming up soon). I hope you enjoyed following our adventure this summer and cheers until next time!

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